Thursday, July 15, 2010

U.K: Northern Ireland







There's no border control here so suddenly the road signs change into miles, the gaelic disappears, and when we stopped at Tesco's for groceries we had to pay in pounds. The scenery changed too; the stone walls transformed into hedges and the land looked more green and farmy with woods and wild deer. After an epic days drive on Zoe's behalf we arrived at Port Rush (right up on the north coast near Coleraine) at her aunty's holiday apartment, it was so nice and cosy with views over the beach (white sand,) comfy couches, and heating. We spent a few days here and lots of tea was drunk, blocks of chocolate were eaten and movies on TV were watched!

It's a sleepy little holiday town which really reminded me of Apollo bay, the light on the hills and sea were the same. Zoe's cousin and his friends took us out on Saturday night, it was mostly unintelligible because their northern Irish accents were so thick! Loved it here because we cooked all the things we'd been craving, did lots of washing, and read our books on the couch under a rug.

Had a sightseeing day of Dunluce castle (an awesome old ruin on the edge of a cliff which was built and ruled and pillaged and ruined before there was white settlement on Australia,) the Giants Causeway which looks bigger in pictures but was still pretty bizarre with the paved effect of the stones, and then Carrick-a-rede rope bridge where we tiptoed across a gorge to an island which was so windy I was afraid for the safety of small children. I was in heaven with the colours and textures and movement- the long grass billowing and flattening across all the hill sides, the ocean swelling and heaving, the birds wheeling around in a whirlpool of wind.

Drove down to Belfast and did a great city tour; saw where the Titanic was built (they are so proud of it! and they take no responsibility for it sinking because after all the captain was an Englishman so it's his fault!) Also saw all the main sights of The Troubles which was eye-opening, the 'peace walls' are still standing (tall fences topped with barbed wire seperating Nationalist/ Unionist sections because "if they can't see each other, they can't shoot each other." And heard all about the bombing terrorist attacks and hunger strikes etc and saw the political murals which are starting to be painted over because they are offensive to residents, reminding them everyday of a horrible and upsetting past. They are going to be painted over with more peaceful & international murals, and ones celebrating all nice things Belfast like Titanic, George Best football star, CS Lewis & JRR Tolkien. One of the murals is the 'Belfast Mona Lisa' because his rifle barrel seems to follow you where-ever you are... And the tour guide said that now if you wear a t-shirt with the wrong political slogan on it down the wrong end of town you will still get your head kicked in (but you won't be shot anymore.)

Mel flew to London and then home, Zoe & I stayed one night in Mogherafelt (pronounced mochafelt) with her aunty uncle & cousin on their property inbetween paddocks and a graveyard! Then they dropped me back in Belfast, Zoe was heading home to Melbourne and I was off to Edinburgh.

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